Wednesday, March 3, 2010

"champagne is champagne in a train more than anywhere."


On the surface, she seemed to be the ultimate high society flapper. The only daughter of Sir Bache Cunard, a baronet, and his American wife Maud Alice Burke (known as 'Emerald Lady Cunard' to the world), a doyenne of the London society set, Nancy Cunard (1896-1965) lived a life of privilege from an early age. She was heiress to the extremely wealthy Cunard transatlantic steamship company, founded by her grandfather. During the 1920s, Cunard came to symbolize the "new woman" of the decade. She was sensational - a gorgeous sight in exotic clothing, she had everyone hanging on her every word. William Carlos Williams called her "one of the major phenomena of history" and kept a photograph of her in his study. As a little girl, she "wanted to run away and be a vagabond," as she told family friend George Moore. Despite her upper class upbringing, Nancy rejected the ideals set forth by her family, instead choosing to live most of her life as an activist to issues such as fascism and racism. 
In 1910, after her parents separated, she moved with her mother to London. Her adolescence was checkered with times spent in Germany and France in boarding school, other times her mother was content to have her at home. During World War I, Nancy developed a relationship with Peter Broughton Adderley, a soldier who was killed in action only weeks before Armistice Day while in France. Within the year, a young Nancy was wed to Sydney Fairbairn, a veteran of the war and prized cricketeer. The marriage lasted less than two years, many allege it was because of Cunard's lasting grief over Adderley's death. It was during this time that she was associated with the influential group The Coterie (an Algonquin Table of sorts for the UK).
After her marriage ended, Nancy moved to Paris at the age of 24. It was in Paris that she became involved with the modernist, surrealist, and dadaist movements, publishing most of her poetry during her time there. She published three volumes of poetry: Outlaw (1921), Sublunary (1923), and Parallax (1925), the latter published by Leonard and Virginia Woolf. She had a brief affair with Aldous Huxley, which would later prove inspiration for several of his novels, including Antic Hay and Point Counter Point, before starting a two-year relationship with Louis Aragon.
In a swirling mix of friends and lovers, Cunard was muse and mentor to some of the most celebrated and distinguished of artists - from writers including Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, Langston Hughes (who called her "one of my favorite folks in the world"), William Carlos Williams, Wyndham Lewis, Ezra Pound, Louis Aragon, Aldous Huxley, Pablo Neruda Henry Crowder, Mina Loy and Tristan Tzara. She posed for Man Ray, Cecil Beaton, Constatin Brancusi, Alvaro Guevara, and Ambrose McEvoy. Cunard was also the inspiration for the character Diana Merrick, played by Greta Garbo, in the film A Woman of Affairs, based on the play The Green Hat. She was beautiful - a rail thin beauty swathed in expensive threads, and made up with smoky make up.
In the late 1920s, Nancy moved to Normandy, setting up the Hours Press in 1928 for young experimental writers. That same year she began a relationship with African American jazz musician Henry Crowder, who then was living in Paris. As a result of the relationship, Cunard became involved with politics, developing a passion for civil rights, even living in Harlem for a time - much to the horror of her mother (her mother was quoted as saying, "Is it true that my daughter knows a Negro?") She wrote Black Man and White Ladyship in 1931 and edited the anthology Negro, which contained early works from Zora Neale Hurston, WeB DuBois, and Langston Hughes.
Her appreciation for the African American community and culture translated over into her widely imitated style. Her arms were always festooned with African bangles, worn layered on top of each other up to both her elbows. She had a love of exotic prints, and wrapped turbans around her fashionably cropped hair. She kept her lips and nails painted in a deep vermillion red at all times.
During the years leading up to the Second World War, Nancy became deeply involved with fascist causes, frequently using the Hours Press to print pamphlets of war poetry. In WWII, she worked for the French Resistance as a translator. Of her political involvements, Cunard said "I've always had the feeling that everyone alive can do something that is worthwhile." After the war, Cunard left Normandy to travel the world. Her later years were plagued by mental illness, untreated throughout her life and aggravated by her severe alcoholism and self-destructive nature, causing her health to rapidly deteriorate. She was severely impoverished, and passed away in a Paris hospital in 1965 after being found on the street, only weighing 26 kilos (less than 60 pounds).

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

switch me on, turn me up, don't want it baudelaire, just glitter lust

Alison Goldfrapp (b. May 13, 1966), frontwoman and namesake of the electro-pop duo Goldfrapp, is such an inspiration for fashion, especially for me. The "Ooh La La" singer is famously elusive about her personal life, and very hesitant to give interviews. This media shyness adds to the air of mystery surrounding this Brit bird, allowing her to adopt a new style persona with each album release. She has had as many transformations under her belt as fellow songstress Madonna, and it is easy to understand Goldfrapp's criticism of the Material Girl for allegedly ripping off her style (The British press is on her side - calling Madge 'Oldfrapp').
Whatever you think about the Madonna-drama, you have to admit that Alison Goldfrapp has some serious style. I adore her for her free-spirited approach to performing (she is rarely seen in shoes while on stage) and her love of all things glamorous. She always looks like she's having fun in what she's wearing, which is honestly the whole point of fashion, isn't it? Her fashion tip: "Just always do your own thing and wear whatever you want."

The Felt Mountain Years (2000-2002):
For Goldfrapp's debut LP Felt Mountain, she was all about berets, Hunter rain boots paired with parkas, soft finger waves, and Heidi braids. A neo-grunge meets English country rose emerged and became one of her most popular looks.

The Black Cherry Years (2003-2004):
For Black Cherry, Goldfrapp was Little Red Riding Hood gone bad. She piled her curls on top of her head in a very Helena Bonham Carter fashion, and concentrated her wardrobe around a black and red palette. She also adopted Vivienne Westwood punk and introduced into her wardrobe velvet capes, top hats, bustier dresses, 1940s-inspired hats, and stilettos worn with striped ankle socks.

The Supernature Years (2005-2006):
For Supernature she went ultra-glam, with her now-signature mane of platinum corkscrew curls and heavily made-up dollybird eyes. This look is reminiscent of 1970s Biba girls who paired the decadent noir looks of the 1920s and 1930s with the glam rock style of the decade. Sculpting her brows into a pin-thin style last seen on the likes of Jean Harlow, Goldfrapp indulged in a love affair with peacock feathers, turban hats, tuxedo jackets, jumpsuits, sky-high platform heels, black lingerie poking out of her clothes, and fishnets. The neo-flapper look is such an integral part of the Supernature look. You can't see it in the photograph but the black jumpsuit she is seen wearing in the lower row of photographs is actually covered in a thick ring of fringe from the knee down, and creates a halo around her as she dances (seen in the 'Ooh La La' video).

The Seventh Tree Years (2007-2008):
In a striking change from the glam rock aesthetic of Supernature, Goldfrapp put away her jumpsuits and platforms and embraced the folkier vibe of Seventh Tree. With oversized poets blouses, tri-corn pirate hats decorated with marabou feathers, multi-colored harlequin suits, over-the-knee socks, the psychedelic carnival inspiration of the album is obvious. She completely the look with a giant owl she frequently posed with.

The Head First Years (2009-Present):
The recently released photos from Goldfrapp's latest upcoming effort Head First reveal a late-1970s and early 1980s appeal. In oversized stonewashed button downs, and pink bomber jumpsuits, the look unites the glam Studio 54 look of Diana Ross with the color palette of Punky Brewster. She completes the look with eye shadows of blues and icy purples.

Her concert style:
She ditched her signature corkscrew curls for several shows, and also switched up her concert garb from flowing smocked minidresses to skintight bodysuits and dresses. She was never seen without a pair of sunglasses on her face, usually it was a pair of candy pink plastic heart-shaped frames.

Going along with the circus aesthetic of Seventh Tree is one of Goldfrapp's most worn concert outfits. A black and white checkered smock dress with large yarn 'buttons', it was accessorized with her signature microphone stand decorated with ribbons and dried flowers.

This dress, which Goldfrapp wore both in concert and at the 2008 Glastonbury festival, is a smock dress made of ribbons. I swoon over it's amazingness. If anyone knows how to make/get one and would like to be kind enough to fill me in, I will be eternally grateful to your kindness.

I adore the coral dress that Goldfrapp sported in many concerts. Similar to the black and white dress in shape, as well as with the pom poms made of yarn, this dress was a perfect piece for the Seventh Tree tour.

Monday, March 1, 2010

change clothes, and go

Natalia Vodianova was granted the wish of girls everywhere when she dressed up as some of fashion's most iconic models. Look through the photos to see how she and the Vogue crew successfully captured the essences of everyone from Dovima to Veruschka.









credit: US Vogue Magazine, May 2009

Sunday, February 28, 2010

Hollywood Rant: Why Keanu? Why?

I am starting a new series of blogs called "Hollywood Rant." They are about how Hollywood can't seem to make decent movies anymore. Here goes...

In case you haven't heard, they are making an live-action adaptation of the Japanese Anime Cowboy Bebop. First of all, Cowboy Bebop is one of my favorite animes. It was the first series I watched so I am attached to it. Now, there have been rumors floating around that Keanu Reeves will be playing Spike Spiegel. Well...the rumors are true! And this makes me so mad! BOOERNS! Keanu only has one acting style...think Matrix and Bill & Ted...one word comes to mind "Whoa." UG! It is going to be so lame! Keanu is such a stiff actor, however, I did like those 2 movies, but he just doesn't fit Spikes character. Chalk another one up to Hollywood for making another crappy adaptation.

After getting really upset I decided to kick back and watch one of my favorite TV series, Flight of the Conchords. That show is great! Great actors and funny songs, always entertaining. And then I got to thinking, Bret looks like Spike, he's got the hair. He would just have to beef up a bit, then I could see him playing Spike in the live-action Cowboy Bebop Movie. He would have to talk in an American accent though. Still, I think it would be awesome if Bret McKenzie starred in a big budget movie.BOO Keanu! Like Whoa! This movie will be awful with me in it. Just check out my crappy hair.
Give Bret a chance! He's got the hair and he can act. If your movie fails Keanu, Bret and Jemaine will sing a song about your failure.
Bret McKenzie for Spike!

Thanks for reading my Hollywood Rant about Cowboy Bebop the live-action movie. Oh Hollywood Filmmakers, how you have dissappointed me yet again. Remember Daredevil, Elecktra, Street Fighter: The Legend of Chun Li? Those movies blew.

five foot something cherry bomb, she had everything going on

As one of the children spawned by the women's movement generation, as well as the female empowerment sentiment of Spice Girls, I am a sucker for all things girl power. Yes, I do own the first and second Charlie's Angels, as well as Legally Blonde 1 and 2. And yes, I did go to see Whip It! the first chance I could. Which is why I can barely hold my horses for the March 19th release of The Runaways. With equal parts girl power AND seventies rock and roll, this movie was pretty much made for me.
The film tells the rise and fall of one of the first all-chick rock band the Runaways, from being rebel kids in Los Angeles to rock goddesses performing their jailbait anthem "Cherry Bomb" on stages across the world. The film focuses on the friendship between the lead singer Cherie Currie (Dakota Fanning, all grown up) and the lead guitarist Joan Jett (Kristen Stewart, with a mullet and without her vampire), as they deal with insane tours, controlling managers, and making the music they love. The girls become as iconic as their band's music - Jett becomes the badass black leather-and-mullet-wearing rock'n roll pure heart, and Currie becomes the resident jailbait sex kitten - a Bowie-Bardot hybrid in a corset and fishnets.
The Runaways' story is interesting because of the decadent time period - a post-hippie, pre-heavy world that thought itself wild (and was!) but was innocent to the future (AIDS, etc.). The fact that they were still teenage girls when they were thrust into the world of sex, drugs, and rock'n'roll is remarkable, and it is easy to see how the band fell under the resident Svengali of Kim Fowley, legendary music impresario who crafts the Runaways' image to make them into a smash hit, no matter how bruised or battered the girls get along the way.
If The Runaways turns out to be anything like Satisfaction! or Ladies and Gentlemen, the Fabulous Stains, I will be a very happy girl. I feel like this film could initiate a revival in late-seventies, post-glam pre-grunge awesomeness in the way that girls dress. Joan's uniform of leather pants and faded rock tees with slept-in eyeliner is still working on her over 30 years later, and Cherie's femme fatale looks could easily be channeled to today's wardrobe. It doesn't matter if you just wear a little something that is Runaways-approved, like beat-up black Chuck Taylors or studded dog collar jewelry, as long as you keep that rock'n roll spirit alive. I know that I'm already breaking out my black leather jacket, platform boots and black makeup in preparation.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

there is a blizzard occurring outside my window now...

I think I'm going to have to pull a Doctor Zhivago look today if I ever want to make it outside my door. I knew I should have bought that vintage fox fur hat when I saw it!

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

"Private? What makes you think my life is private?"


One of the most well-liked gals around is Miss Elizabeth Taylor. Sure Debbie Reynolds is probably not her biggest fan, but during her career spanning more than half and century, Miss Taylor has counted more best friends than husbands (!) Throughout her life she has counted Montgomery Clift, Rock Hudson, Grace Kelly, Michael Jackson, Liza Minnelli, Jane Powell, among others, as her closest friends.
I have long been a great fan of Elizabeth Taylor's. Ever since I saw her in National Velvet when I was a horse-obsessed six-year-old, I have longed to be like her. There is a definite charming quality in Elizabeth's presence, seen onscreen as well as off. She is always the most beautiful and enchanting person around, bar none.
How to be like Elizabeth Taylor:
  • Start a collection. Elizabeth is known worldwide for her large collection of jewels. She has written a book about her "love affair" with jewelry, though is not against parting with certain pieces if the cause is right. She sold her 69.42 carat ring from Richard Burton in an auction in order to raise money for her politician love John Warner.
  • Love animals. Elizabeth has called her many pets (from puppies to a chipmunk named Nibbles that she wrote a book about when she was a teenager) her best friends. She also shares her love - she gave James Dean a Siamese kitten he named Marcus shortly before the actor's death.
  • Crusade for a cause close to your heart. After close friend Rock Hudson lost his battle with AIDS, she founded the Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation.
  • Be business-savvy. Elizabeth was the first actress to be paid one million dollars (for her role in Cleopatra), and has been quoted as saying "If someone is dumb enough to offer me a million dollars to make a picture, I'm certainly not dumb enough to turn it down."
  • Live by love and virtue. Elizabeth was an honest believer in finding love. "You don't start a movie expecting to crash," she has said, "You get married expecting it to be forever. That's why you get married." Despite being married eight times, Elizabeth has said "I've only slept with men I've been married to. How many women can make that claim?"
  • Be humble and, most importantly, be yourself. Elizabeth has admitted, "I don't think I am a beautiful woman. Ava Gardner is. I think Audrey Hepburn is. But the way I look is all right with me. Because I want to be me. I don't take vitamins or do exercise. I can lose weight when I want to, mainly by just not eating."
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